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Keywords: progressive wave
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Proceedings Papers
Publisher: Society of Underwater Technology
Paper presented at the Wave Kinematics and Environmental Forces, March 24–25, 1993
Paper Number: SUT-AUTOE-v29-329
... Aberporth in the southern part of Cardigan Bay I t became clear that low amplitude waves with very little break~ng caused the build- up whilst the erosion was caused by large breaking waves As shown by Longuet-Higgins (19531, low non-breaking progressive waves produce a shoreward bottom current whi 1st...